London gardens are their own thing: small, often shaded by walls or trees, a degree or two warmer than the countryside, and usually paved somewhere. That warmth means a slightly longer growing season and a slightly earlier start. Here is a realistic calendar for a courtyard, small back garden or balcony.
Late winter and early spring: the reset
This is the highest-value time in the whole year, and the least glamorous. Cut back last year's dead growth, clear leaves out of borders and gutters, wash pots, sharpen tools and top up compost.
- Prune roses and summer-flowering shrubs before growth starts
- Cut back ornamental grasses and dead perennial stems
- Repot anything root-bound and refresh the top few centimetres of compost in permanent pots
- Check fences, trellis and pot feet before the wind picks up
- Give the lawn its first light cut on a dry day with the blades set high
Spring: planting and feeding
Once frost risk passes, everything happens quickly. Plant summer bedding and herbs, feed shrubs and pots, and start weeding regularly — five minutes a week now saves hours in July.
For shade, which most London gardens have plenty of, ferns, hostas, hydrangeas, Japanese anemones and heucheras all cope well. Pots let you place colour exactly where the sun actually lands, which is usually not where you would expect.
Summer: watering is the whole job
Pots and hanging baskets in a warm walled garden can need water daily in a heatwave. Water early morning or evening, at the base rather than over the leaves, and water deeply and less often rather than a splash every day — that encourages deeper roots.
Mulch bare soil to hold moisture, deadhead flowers to keep them coming, mow slightly higher in heat so the grass shades its own roots, and accept that a brown lawn in August is dormant, not dead. It comes back with rain.
Autumn: the second-best time to plant
Warm soil and reliable rain make autumn ideal for planting shrubs, hedges and spring bulbs — bulbs from September, tulips best left until November. Clear fallen leaves off the lawn and paving, but leave some in borders where they feed the soil and shelter insects.
- Plant spring bulbs, shrubs and hedging
- Last lawn cut once growth slows, blades set high
- Clear gutters and drains before winter rain
- Move tender pots to a sheltered wall, raised on feet
- Cut back only what is collapsing or diseased
Winter: less than you think
Winter is for structural jobs and restraint: prune apple and pear trees while dormant, fix fences and paving, and clean the shed. Leave seedheads and hollow stems standing where you can — they look good in frost and see birds and insects through the cold.
Keep off a frozen or waterlogged lawn, and check that pots are not sitting in water, which does more damage in London winters than cold does.
Balconies and courtyards
Everything above still applies, with three extra rules: check weight limits before adding large planters, secure anything that could blow off, and use bigger pots than feel necessary — small pots dry out in hours in wind and sun. Grouping pots together shades their sides and cuts watering noticeably.
Common questions
- When should I cut my lawn in London?
- Usually from March to October, with the first and last cuts on a high setting. Skip cuts during drought and never mow a frosted lawn.
- What grows well in a shady London garden?
- Ferns, hostas, hydrangeas, Japanese anemones, heucheras and many spring bulbs cope well with shade from walls and trees.
- How often should pots be watered in summer?
- Often daily in hot weather, especially small pots and hanging baskets. Water early or late, at the base, and deeply rather than lightly.
- Do I need permission to cut a tree?
- Possibly. Trees with a preservation order or in a conservation area need council consent, so check before any work and ask your gardener if they are unsure.